Latest news 6/5/06

I have decided instead of trying to give a day by day account I will just give you the latest news of what we are up to so far. Briefly after Llandogo we had some very long and difficult stages, covering the whole of Wales in 2 days. This left us very tired and demoralised. But a divine wind blew up and carried us on our way and is still doing so to date. So we whizzed north from Preston through the leake district up to the Scottish border at Longtown, Cumbria. The wind convenisntly swung around to the south east bloing us up through Dumfies and Galloway, Ayrshire and to the ferry across to Arran. This morning we left Lochranza in the sunshine on the first ferry at 8:15 and continued our journey through Argyll arriving in Oban this evening. Our luck regarding the rain ran out today. The last 10 miles were in pretty heavy rain. This has now gone and we have a lovely sunny evening.

Journal Entry - Day 8
Another lovely full English breakfast from our charming landlady. A bit misty in the Wye valley bit it did'nt feel too cold. The road was fairly quiet on the way to Monmouth and very scenic. We briefly stopped in Monmouth to phone up our other halves as there was no mobile phone reception in Llandogo, and the only payphone was in the local shop (which was closed of course). We then set off up the Monnow valley. This area is staggeringly beautiful and unbelieveably quiet. We hardly saw a soul between Monmouth and Skenfrith. It is also very hilly despite generally following the valley, so progress was quite slow. We had arranged to meet up with my other sister and her family on this stage as it is the closest to home. They eventually caught up with us in Grosmont, but we were'nt ready for lunch. So I suggested they went up the Golden valley and we would meet up with them there. Unfortunately the spot they decided on was in Dorstone, which we didn't get to till 2pm. So we had a late long lunch and a brisk northerly headwind seemed to be blowing up. This all added to the delays in covering the huge distance we had to do this day. It's a shame I did'nt split this stage as it had some of the most beautiful contryside we have been through so far. But as I have cycled much of this before the rationale was to get through it so we can explore new territory. All this led to a very very long day. We eventually arrived at Clun at about 9pm totally knackered wondering how on earth we were going to get on the bikes the next day. Overall we did 81 very hilly miles.

Journal Entry - Day 9
Porridge breakfast, then on the road for 8:15. We had recovered fairly well after yesterdays excesses. Very quiet road to Bishops Castle, where we sampled the delights of the high tech cattle market toilets. I can highly recomment these, your bowel movements are accompanied by Mozarts's horn concerto. This got me thinking of other appropriate music for such an occasion, perhaps the elephant music from carnival of the animals. On we went past a tree painted red near Church Stoke then on to Chirbury where we had a bite to eat after which we followed the valley road up to Westbury, crossed the Severn for the second time at Melverley and stopped for Sunday lunch at The Cross Keys Kinnerley. The next village - Knockin. Now what would you call your shop if you had one in Knockin. "The knockin shop" of course, which is what it is called. Some navigational error cost us dear between here and Ellesmere. The road then got hilly between here and Threapwood. Something to do with retreating glaciers from the last ice age so I'm told. Then after dipping in and out of Wales all day we finally settled on England and followed the Dee valley to Chester. Why is it that all the main rivers we have encountered are alphanumerics. Y, D and 7, perhaps there is some secret message in our quest - perhaps the holy grail is at John O Groats. Perhaps I'm typing a load of rubbish.

Journal Entry - Day 10

Had a very nice hostal cooked full English breakfast. The set of to the waves of a group of old Australian ladies through the traffic of a bank holiday Chester. assisted by a strong westerly we headed towards Frodsham along the A56. Then using Phil Horsleys excellent directions we followed cycle routes through Runcorn and was guided to Runcorn bridge over the Mersey without having to do any main road stuff. we were about to join the St Helens canal path when this old chap approached us (hearing aids, glasses like the bottom of bottles) ho told us that he had had reports of a yacht being beached andwould we look out for it on our travels. If we saw said yacht would we tell Mike Hughes at the Fiddlers Ferry marina. Having noted all this down we crossed the lock at Spike Island and followed the towpath. Dotted along thispath were fishermen trying to catch (a fish presumably) in the fetid waters of the canal. I cannot imagine how anything could possibly be living in what passes as water in that cut. When I think back to the waters of the Wye or Monnow or Lugg or Clun, I can't imagine why anyone would want to fish in a place like this. As it transpired we did see a beached yacht on a distant mudflat. So dutifully we reported to the marina office, but Mike already knew about it and was on his way to rescue the boat at that moment. On we went to Warrington through Great Sankey park. There were lotsof new housing developments here, very posh 3 storey exec homes. It was now getting towards lunchtime. as the weather was not too good we tried to get into a pub for lunch without any luck. we ended up having a peanut butter sandwich in a draughty bus shelter in Newton-Le-Willows. The next 10 miles or so seemed to be a continuous conurbation separated by slagheaps, windswept and rainy. Things only got better after Upholland and Appley Bridge. When we got to Preston I sensed that Par was not in a good mood. So I tried to navigate to the hotel as directly as possible. Which I did. Another day with a headwind will surely finish him off.

Journal Entry - Day 11
Dad really pissed off last night. Almost ready to pack it in. Anyway he said he would leave it until this morning and then decide. Anyway he decided to continue. I felt very depressed. we flew down the A6 assisted by a 20mph southerly tailwind. At Catterall we left the A6 and followed the B5430 through the villages. Then continued along the B5272 to pick up the cycle trach along the Lune estuary into Lancaster (big mistake). For some reason the cycle track was closed so we diverted through some estates into Lancaster. had a cup of tea at the appropriately named Wind Down Cafe in Lancaster. When I was about to leave I thought it would be a good idea to ask the bestway to get to the A6 northbound. There were 3 women and one cross dresser. The 3 women had no idea how to get to the A6, but the cross dresser gave me detailed instructions, throwing in details such as the location of a motobike shop etc. No doubting he has a Y chromosome. Made really fast progress to Milnthorpe where we had a lunch of Cumberland sausages at the Cross Keys Hotel - very good. Then turned off the A6 onto a thankfully short stretch of the very dangerous A590. And then onto the A5074 Bowness road. Which was actually very quiet, but (we are in the lake district now) hilly. Stocked up on provisions in Bowness for our evening repast, then caught the ferry over lake Windermere. Luckily as it turned out because we were the last crossing before it closed due to high winds. Bit of a climb up to Sawreythen a lovely few miles around Esthwaite water to the palatial hostal. where apparently Francis Brett Young used to live. Novelist of note.

Journal Entry - Day 12

Heavy rain in the night which had cleared by morning. YHA breakfast and on the road by 8:30 in the subshine. Still had a brisk southerly wind. Followed the B road to Ambleside where we followed the A591 north and tackled the Dunmail raise. Dad had previously told me of his love of A roads so I left him to go along the East of Thirlmere whilst I went around the quieter West road. We arranged to meet up in Threlkeld, which we did and had a snack. I discussed the route to Carlisle from here. The route I had was a bit hilly but fairly direct. The alternative was along the A66 (v busy) to Penrith and then north on the A6. I get no pleasure from lorries sailing past within inches of my right elbow. So we agreed to go our separate ways and meet up at Carlisle station. I had an excellent ride, hardly saw a car at all. A lot of the earlier part of the journey was on the coast to coast route on a gated road. Continued north through Mosedale then stopped for a picnic lunch at Hesket Newmarket. An absolutley gorgeous day with Simpsons skies. After a bit of a climb out of Hesket Newmarket a great descent down through Raughton Head and Dalston then followed the river Caldew along a cycle track into Carlisle. Had a cappucino by the station when 45 mins later dad turned up. We then negotiated the hell of a Carlisle rush hour along the A7 (bloody dangerous) to Longtown and Briar Lea House B&B. Felt like an easy day's ride today, helped by the tail wind. Had a huge dinner at the Graham Arms Hotel - which I can recommend (on the way to which we saw a man cycling in his socks with his boots in his hand - what was that all about?) then back to bed by 9pm ready for tomorrow's exertions.

Journal Entry Day 13

A hearty breakfast from our hosts, to the sound of modern religious music on the hifi. Shared breakfast with a group of motorcyclists from Wellingborough which was very amiable. Made excellent pregress again due to another tailwind from the southeast.I really cannot believe our luck over the last three days. Did a short detour through Gretna Green for the mandatory picture infront of the blacksmiths shop. Then through Gretna which had an amazing road floral display of daffodils and tulips as we left the village. Continued on along the B721 through Eastriggs and Dornock where we had some light rain for about 5 minutes, then Annan. I really liked Annan. A bustling little town a bit like Upton on Severn. Approaching from the East you hit all the residential area then the busy centre of the town then the river Annan, then like Upton, once you cross the river you are out in the countryside again. A lot of the buildings around here are similar to some near home. Lots of sandstone used. By midday we were in Dumfries.We got some excellent advice from the tourist information centre and a good place to leave the bikes while we explored the town. I really liked this place too, big pedestrianised area in the centre. Had lunch at The Globe (on the advice of the TIC chap). I'm listening to this brillant reel on BBC radio scotland whle I'm typing this - why can't radio be like this at home? Spent the afternoon following Nithsdale northwest avioding the A76 where possibletill we arrived at Sanquhar. This place looks a bit down at heel. However our digs are excellent - The Balckaddie House Hotel, best place we have stayed at so far. Nowhere to eat in town so we ate at the hotel. It was agood job really as before we sat down to eat there was this massive electrical storm. I can't think of when I have seen such heavy rain coming down. By the time we had finished our meal the power was down. Quite an exciting end to the day. I ca't believe how lucky we have been on this trip so far. For the last three days we have had good tailwinds and be have hardly been rained on at all in the trip so far. Tomorrowwe should arrive on Arran, our 3rd ferry crossing and leave the lowlands behind us.

Journal Entry - Day 14 (picture above taken near Ardrossan ferry terminal)
On the road by about 9ish, on a beautiful crystal clear sunnyday with a moderatesouth westerly. We parted company right from the startwith dad taking the A76 while I took the back road on the southern side of the river Nith. I rejoined the main road just after Kirconnel when my options ran out. Caught up with dad and we cycled together as far as New Cumnock. Just before gettting there, through a dip in the hills we could clearly see Arran over 30 miles away. At New Cumnock we again parted company, with dad taking the main roads while I took the back roads with the plan of meeting up at the ferry terminal at Ardrossan. Ayrshire is known for it's vistas ad there was no shortage of these on my route. I seemd to be able to see for miles around, even though I was not on particularly high ground. Far away to the north I could see the outlines of mountains in the far distance. Not far out of New Cumnck (on the "Sweet Afton") a skinhead was making his way across a field towards a ruined croft with 2 bottles of beer. When he spotted me he gave me a friendlywave.A little unusual in this land of dour Scots. I zigzaged my way under the flight path for Prestwick airport. When what should happen but I had my first puncture of the trip, caused by a rimpinch when I ran over a stone. Put the spare tube in and continued to Tarbolton where I bought some provisions for a picnic lunch. Then on to Irvine when I grappled with the navigational challanges involved in following the cycle paths. In one moment of confuson I was befriended by a French cyclist, now living in edinburgh, but originally from Alsace-Lorraine. He effortlessly guided me towards Ardorssan while we chatted. Got to the ferry terminal 20 mins after dad and too late to get the 3pm departure. So we had to hang for the 6pm one. We arrived on the delightful Island of Arran (I really must come here again) and cycled around to the charming little village of Lochranza where we dashed off to the local hotel before they finished doing food. Apart from missing the earlier ferry today has been a near perfect cyclig day.